Out of Africa (with my family)
A itinerary form Cape Town to Garden Route and Port Elizabeth. A stop at a Grootbos for whale watching and a safari at Madikwe Game Reserve
Ladakh: The most hidden and mystical side of India.
India is one of the destinations in the world that creates the greatest disparity of opinions among travelers, some people are in love with this daily contrast, and others simply do not consider this to be a destination of choice.
Today I want to focus on both types of travelers, to tell you about one of the best and most enriching experiences I have had in my life: knowing and discovering Ladakh, a region bordering Pakistan and Tibet in the northwest corner of India.
Unlike the rest of India, the best time of the year to visit Ladakh is during the summer months, from June to September, because during the rest of the year, temperatures can become quite extreme. We must not forget that it is a region mostly located above 3,000 meters in altitude.
A place full of mysticism: one of the cradles of Buddhism, with a set of truly breathtaking monuments and monasteries, framed by the spectacular mountains of the Himalayan range. As you can imagine, it is one of the most interesting areas for some of the most impressive trekking in the world, where, unlike other destinations, it exudes culture on all sides, providing options for "everyone" where a high physical level is not necessary.
Known as "little Tibet", it is radically contrary to the image we have of India, and not only for the predominant religion, but for the vastness of its landscapes and, above all, the spiritual purity of the entire population within some of the most important monasteries in the world.
Ladakh, a name meaning "land of high passes", is one of the most populated areas in the Kashmir region.
A paradise for trekking enthusiasts, in the past Ladakh was noted for its strategic location for trade routes.
I took the flight from Delhi to the remote city of Leh, the capital of Ladakh, which contains an airport at which only pilots who know it inside out can land because the approach and landing require precision through a descent between mountains.
From the moment of arrival, the experience had already impacted me greatly. I was lucky enough to stay in Shakti, a set of private houses, decorated to the smallest detail by a European specialist living in London, with great taste, located in traditional villages of less than 50 inhabitants, lost in the mountains and with spectacular views.
All of them are within a maximum radius of 50-60km, allowing a complete experience, by touring 3-4 different properties, in various ecosystems and altitudes, thus allowing acclimatization, which is very important in this part of the world.
The experience of staying in a private home in traditional villages lost in the mountains.
From the moment of arrival, our guide, Rudy, was waiting for me, accompanied by a private chef and service staff, who made sure that everything was taken care of to the last minute detail throughout the tour.
During this first afternoon, I was able to get to know the village where this first house, Nimoo, is located, see the day-to-day life of the locals, and discover the purity and reality of their gestures and expressions. I began photographing every moment: the pure air, the yaks walking around me, the smell of burning firewood, people dressed in colorful fabrics, and faces weathered by the cold air and the mountain sun.
The next morning, the first of the experiences I remember most fondly was going rafting along the Indus River, one of the most important rivers in the country and, in fact, one of those for which the country is named. Framed in a spectacular canyon and, despite multiple falls into the water, it remains one of the best experiences I have enjoyed in my traveling life.
Mysticism is undoubtedly in the air in Ladakh, in each and every corner, making it the perfect place to learn and discover more deeply this religion, so little known but, at the same time, so appreciated by much of the Western population. Finally, I was able to understand its meaning.
In the past, formal education was only provided in monasteries and the first-born son of each family was obliged to learn the Tibetan script in order to be able to read the sacred books.
It is with this river in the background and on top of a hill, where I visited the Thiksey Monastery, which has more than 600 years of history and is very close to Leh, at an imposing 3,600 meters of altitude. It is possibly one of the most beautiful experiences of the whole trip, mainly because of its privileged setting among the mountains of Ladakh. In Rudy's company, I began to learn more about the Buddhist religion, its roots, and fundamental aspects, planting a seed inside me that, little by little and throughout the trip, was growing and increasing in curiosity.
After I visited the monastery, still shocked by what I had just seen, another different place awaited me: the village of Igoo, located at a higher altitude. I can't stop remembering the starry night, when I was lucky enough to see dozens of shooting stars in the clearest sky I have ever seen, from the private rooftop of the house.
The monastery of Thiksey, at an altitude of 3,600 meters, was built 600 years ago.
The monks live in small white houses at the foot of the monastery.
Journey to spirituality
The next morning, I went into the village to learn more about some of the local customs, especially those more mystical or difficult to understand, those that generated more curiosity in me. Finally, I ended up at the home of one of the best medicinal oracles in the village, where I had one of the most interesting experiences of the trip in getting to know the hidden side of the traditional and esoteric techniques of the area.
The oracle's assistant met me at the door of her home, on the outskirts of the village, and took me to her, where she was already preparing all the instrumentation to begin her trance. The oracle went into a trance: she began to recite and make sounds of enormous magnitude, with gestures and hand gestures that only increased my uncertainty. I had never experienced a similar situation.
Once inside the trance, and in a most bizarre way, I explained to their assistant the concerns that I had at that moment about my health, while he translated them into Tibetan, the only language that the oracle understood.
The oracles (Lhamo) in Ladakh are the expression of Bon shamanism. There are two types of shamans: monastic shamans, who exist only in three monasteries, and secular shamans, mostly women.
This two-hour period with the oracle, as well as the methods and remedies that were recommended to me, is something I will forever remember: a singular experience, and even epic in some senses.
My trip to Ladakh never ceased to amaze me... the next day, through the mountains, forests, and small villages, I arrived at Hemis Monastery, the largest in the area, where every year the Hemis festival takes place, usually in early June. This is a very special moment for the monastery: dressed in brightly colored garments, and spectacular handmade masks, representing the victory over all demons at the hands of Guru Trakpo, the great victor.
- Hemis Monastery has more than 200 branch monasteries in the Himalayas and more than 1,000 monks under its protection —
- The origin of the prayer flags is in those used by the Tibetans who practiced the Bon shamanic religion before the introduction of Buddhism. —
- Almost life-size murals depicting Buddha as well as fierce deities can be seen in the monastery —
- Enjoy a private high-altitude picnic. Carbohydrates are the basis of the cuisine in Ladakh in order to combat the low temperatures
As you can imagine, it is a truly unique experience to visit this place, as you step further into its centuries-old culture.
It is one of the most sacred places for the Drukpa, one of the most followed branches of Buddhism, whose history dates back to before the 11th century. I cannot put in words the grandeur of this place, which I was lucky enough to experience practically alone, with different areas to relax and continue learning about this magical culture.
It is one of the most sacred places for the Drukpa, one of the most followed branches of Buddhism, whose history dates back to the 11th century.
After lunch by the monastery, I headed to the last of the houses where I would be staying, located at a higher altitude than the rest, and close to some of the most impressive monasteries in the area. I remember with great affection the Stakna Monastery, located on a small mountain next to the river, surrounded by fields of crops, creating a spectacular contrast of colors.
What made it special, was that I was served lunch in a private and privileged enclave with beautiful views of the monastery and the surroundings. I can't stop remembering this wonderful moment.
The Stakna monastery was founded at the end of the 16th century.
During this afternoon, I took the opportunity to walk through the village where the house was located, get to know some of its neighbors, and continue taking as many pictures as I could. I could not believe the purity and virginity of this area of the world, and I did not if I would have the chance to live an experience of such magnitude again.
Without a doubt, you become engrossed with the local people, so pure and tender that it hardly resembles anything I had ever seen. I still remember these moments with longing and tenderness.
To my surprise, upon my arrival at the house in the village of Likhir, a Buddhist monk was waiting for me, eager to answer every question that I possibly had throughout my trip. It was truly amazing to be able to spend more than two hours with someone who has lived the Buddhist experience from the inside.
This Buddhist monk has been in the Stakna monastery since he was 14 years old, and what impressed me the most was learning of his day-to-day life, so different and authentic, free of all ties, free of any need, enjoying every moment with so little...
Likhir monastery has approximately 120 Buddhist monks and a school, where almost thirty students study.
Today, the rituals and disciplines based on Pratimoksa, the basic Buddhist teachings, are preserved in the monastery.
Likhir is in a valley surrounded by mountains, and at an altitude of about 2,900 meters.
Shey Palace was built by the king of Ladakh, Deldan Namgyal, in 1655 and used as a summer palace by the royal families.
Imposing statue of Buddha in Basgo, a town with three monasteries.
The Dalai Lama's monastery
I felt immensely lucky to be able to expand my knowledge in a unique and unrepeatable way, to look beyond and consider that there is a fuller way to enjoy life. Undoubtedly, one of the best experiences on a personal level that I have been able to live, one that makes you feel like the luckiest person in the world for being there, at that moment and surrounded by such unique people.
But the best would come at the end because, on the last day of the trip, I enjoyed a totally enriching and magical experience, attending the daily prayer in one of the three largest Buddhist monasteries in the world, a place where it is very common to see the current Dalai Lama performing a religious act: the Drepung Monastery.
Drepung was home to 7 colleges and a total of 10,000 monks in its heyday.
Built in 1416, Drepung Monastery is the first of the three main monasteries of the Gelukpa Buddhist sect.
I arrived early to witness the arrival of all the monks, from the youngest to the oldest, and to take advantage of the privileged position I was in by witnessing the religious act. Suddenly, they all began to pray in almost perfect harmony, while serving an infusion garnished with yak milk.
I was extremely happy to be there.
After witnessing this magical situation, I visited the monastery in depth in the company of one of the monks, trying to learn more about his culture and his passion for this life he has decided to live, understanding how he was able to give up all of the privileges he had, to live in the purest form of simplicity.
Daniel Collado, senior travel designer, during his trip to Ladakh.
After seeing it in perspective, I can only remember my long conversation with that monk who came to visit me, from which I learned so much, and which will help me never forget my adventure in Ladakh, one of the most magical places I have had the opportunity to visit in the world.
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