Travel through Northwest Argentina, the "NOA"

I had long wanted to discover the northwest of Argentina, an area that still retains its identity, rich in history, and where hospitality excites. I finally had the opportunity to complete a "road trip" that has not left me indifferent. 

The northwest of Argentina, commonly known as NOA, consists of a large region that integrates the provinces of Jujuy, Salta, Tucumán, Catamarca, La Rioja, and Santiago del Estero, representing more than 20% of the national territory.

In my first foray into this area, I had the opportunity to drive through a large part of Jujuy and Salta. If you enjoy driving, integrating with local populations, and are a lover of scenery, I invite you to read on to discover an exceptionally scenic journey with all the comforts.

The NOA is characterized by its extraordinary landscapes, often contrasting with each other. On my route, I encountered Andean mountain ranges, extensive valleys, and extremely deserted areas that often communicate through the so-called quebradas.

My journey began in Salta, ... where I picked up what was to be my traveling companion, a Chevrolet that would be fueled by Naphtha 95 (gasoline), while I would dedicate myself to tasting different types of empanadas.

The first journey was going to take me to Huacalera through the RN9, a road of about three hours and a half that helped me discover a landscape that, as I went further north, changed chromatically at times, from the yellow of the fields to the reddish and green of the various rock formations. Huacalera is a perfect starting point because this small town is very close to two of the major attractions in the area; Pucará de Tilcara and the famous mountain range of the fourteen colors of Hornocal.

During my visit to Pucará de Tilcara, and from the hand of Horacio, an expert local guide, I was able to learn a little more about the northern origins. This settlement composed of ruins of pre-Inca origin is located in the Quebrada de Humahuaca, and was without a doubt, a must on my route. The "Pucará", which means fortress in the Quechua language, was used as a strategic point for the defense and protection of the crops of the Tilcaras, a local tribe, whose main wealth was the quinoa and animals such as llamas or guanacos, - specimens that I have been observing in their natural habitat throughout my route.

Continuing north, it was worth a stop in Uquía (20 minutes from Tilcara), whose attraction lies in the church and the locals who sell their handicrafts in the square itself. From Uquía I headed for the Hornocal, possibly the most impressive hill in the north, where the climb up a sandy road (50 minutes from Uquía), is well worth it. At the top an imposing mountain range awaited me. I don't know if it has fourteen colors, but it was spectacular to visit at 4,200 meters above sea level.

This calcareous formation of numerous minerals, eroded by wind and rain, leaves in sight its colors on the slopes of the mountains. The shape is also striking: they are triangular, so they zigzag along the mountain range, whose height exceeds 4,700 meters above sea level. Some say that the shades of this rainbow are at least 33, between ochres, greens, yellows, and whites. Undoubtedly, the Serranía del Hornocal, which is how it is officially known, is one of the most incredible landscapes I have seen on this route.

After enjoying the views, I returned to RN9 to continue to Purmamarca, taking a detour on RN52. This town is simply magical. Considered a transient town, it has the charm of preserving the colonial architecture, customs, and traditions of the people of the quebradeños. Its unpaved streets, its colorful daily craft fair, and the small local stores that coexist in respect today with tourism make Purmamarca a really interesting place where the sunset on its Cerro de siete colores bathes the streets of this town located at 2,324 meters above sea level in reddish colors.

During my stay in Purmamarca, I could not miss the Colorados walk, a 3-kilometer route that is done on foot, enjoying the landscapes and geological formations of the hills. The route of the Paseo de los Colorados starts in the same town and is a real natural wonder.

The next day I was waiting for one of the experiences that intrigued me the most, to know the Salinas Grandes that belong to both the province of Jujuy and Salta, being the fourth largest salt flat in South America.

The Great Salt Flats of Jujuy

Crossing the Cuesta de Lipan by the RN52, I was driving past a landscape that contained the greatest chromatic variety, and where yellow, green, red, and brown tones gave way to a completely different and white landscape. That's when I knew I had arrived at the Salinas Grandes. The origin of the salt flats is volcanic, approximately 10 million years ago, when the tectonic plates of the continent collided with the Pacific. When the volcanoes erupted, all the mineralized water, salt water, and rocks flowed like rivers and were trapped in this basin, which after evaporation formed the salt flats.

In the tiny village of Tres Morros (15 minutes from Salinas Grandes), Facu, from Salta and part of the staff of Pristine Camps, was waiting for me and drove me in a 4x4 through an infinitely immaculate landscape. Upon arriving at the camp, the intrigue I had at the beginning of the day gave way to the disbelief of such a place.

Pristine Camps is a unique camp, not only because it's in the middle of nowhere in a salt lake, but because it offers exquisite service as far as comfort and gastronomy are concerned, it is an unparalleled experience! The camp has 4 double capsules, where two of them can accommodate two adults plus a child, allowing the total number of guests at full capacity to be 10 people.

All the staff at Pristine is local, and the kitchen team, under the direction of chef Mariana García del Río, evokes the flavors and aromas of northern Argentina with top-quality products. I enjoyed a lunch paired with wines from Bodega Colomé. The experience continues with the subsequent visit with the guides of the Aguas Blancas community to the salt pools.

This luxury camp is an icon of cutting-edge sustainable hospitality created under a circular economy model, where culture, human resources, pristine landscape, and top-notch service applied to a Luxury camp's concept of excellence are prioritized.

After the spectacular discovery of the Salinas, I returned to Purmamarca, where I would spend the night before continuing to the "south of the NOA".

The "south of the NOA" to which I refer are Cachi and Cafayate. It is important to note that, although the distances are not extremely long in kilometers, and that in most of the route, I found very good asphalt infrastructure, there were stretches of sand and stone road, as would be the case up to Cachi, so the best option was to make a stop on the way to Cachi, specifically in Salta, one of the best estancias in the area, if not the best, where House of Jasmines can be found, belonging to the Relais Chateaux chain, an example of architecture and a haven of peace.

The next morning, I was only 153km from Cachi, but as I said, this section is somewhat more complex so it ended up being about three hours and a half until I reached this small town located in the Calchaquíes Valleys (Salta province). During the ride, I discovered a much greener landscape than I was used to finding in the areas of Huacalera or Purmamarca at the beginning. The famous Cuesta del Obispo leading up to the Cardones National Park and its endless road to Cachi, is surrounded by imposing mountains over 5,000 meters high, many of them still with snow and guanacos in full freedom on the sides of the road.

The architecture of this small town is mainly Spanish colonial style with adobe houses painted white. It is in the Central Plaza, where its church is located and daily life takes place, and where again, it coexists in harmony with incipient tourism. The church of Cachi, declared a National Historic Monument, dates back to the nineteenth century and retains part of the elements of its interior in cardon wood.

From Cachi, what was to be the last leg of this incredible "road trip" was about to begin, Cafayate and its imposing setting in the purest Western style. Through the RN40 and leaving behind the Calchaquíes Valleys, I was waiting for this town known for its vineyards, excellent wines, and wineries where torrontés grapes are grown.

Cafayate is the most important city in the circuit of the Calchaquí Valleys, but still retains features of its colonial architecture as I could see in its cobbled streets and church. It has great particular attractions, the corn mill of the seventeenth century, its Museum of Vine and Wine, and the imposing hiking as the Cañon de la Roca or the Paso ... simply spectacular! I could not miss learning more about the wine of this area, and I was lucky to discover "Burbujas de Altura" a family that produces its own wine.

Without a doubt, the NOA is one of the most spectacular routes in my experience, visiting different destinations, and without detracting from any of them. The NOA is simply magical and offers those who travel it the opportunity to immerse themselves in the purest and most traditional places in Argentina... do you want to know more?