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Mustang, destination found
Hidden from the world until a few years ago, one can finally get to know a high-altitude geographical and spiritual region, with all the delicacy that still intact microcosms
Situated north of Nepal, in the Himalayas, Mustang encompasses the valley of the Kali Gandaki River. It has its own language, its own religion (Tibetan Buddhism and pagan rituals) and its own traditions, existing only there. With high mountains and a harsh climate, the landscape is arid but spectacular. And getting there is still a challenge with the capital Lo Manthang at 3,800 meters above sea level. In fact, until recently it was downright impossible. It remained isolated until 2012, when the road connecting China to the plains of Nepal was completed, raising no small amount of concern about the impact it would have on the small kingdom's culture and traditions. Instead, Mustang has managed to retain its charm as a forbidden land, even if some now emigrate in search of opportunity to the United States or the rich countries of the Middle East, and almost never return. But that is the story of humanity.
Mustang's landscape of lakes and mountains.
Mustang's landscape of lakes and mountains.
Jharkot. Photo: Elise Hassey.
The uniqueness of Mustang should also be attributed to the difficult living conditions of the inhabitants in a grand and spiritual environment.
Here the most authentic expression of Tibetan Buddhism,a religion with an intimate and initiatory character has been preserved. And although the attraction to a more modern lifestyle is strong, the country remains rooted in its traditions and cultural heritage.
Caves carved into the rock show the presence of humans since 2,800 B.C., while Buddhism spread starting in the 7th century from Tibet, of which Mustang was part until 1440. In 1790 it was integrated into the Kingdom of Nepal. After the Chinese occupation of Tibet in 1960, China and Nepal signed an agreement that closed the border between Tibet and Mustang. Tibetan fighters took refuge in Mustang, which remained isolated until 1992, when the government opened it to international travelers. Until 2008, when Nepal declared itself an independent republic, High Mustang was presided over by one of the last Himalayan kings, Jigme Dorje Palbar Bista, who died in 2016.
Photo: Elise Hassey.
Sensing the tourism potential of this small, unspoiled and forgotten kingdom, the Sherpa family, owners of the Mountain Lodges of Nepal group, bought a structure in 2014. The plan was straightforward: renovate it and add it to the company's fifteen other tented camps and lodges, creating a new stop on the trekking circuit between Everest and Annapurna. But it only took starting work to realize that a new destination was rather being built. Architect Bill Bensley, a sustainable design fundamentalist, was chosen to design the hotel. The arrangement worked well, to the point of choosing his Shinta Mani brand for management as well. Shinta Mani opened in August 2023, effectively opening Mustang to the world.
The Shinta Mani Mustang hotel. Photo: Elise Hassey.
Photo: Elise Hassey.
Travel to Mustang is an opportunity to meet people from different cultures and to reflect on the delicate balance between tradition and modernization. And although the country is currently in the spotlight of luxury travel thanks to the opening of the new five-star hotel, one must go beyond the comfort of hospitality and remember that this place is still a rare microcosm of ancient Tibetan Himalayan culture and should be protected as such. For ten days in Mustang, you pay a resort fee of $500, unless you are part of a humanitarian or research expedition.
A different world at 3,800 meters above sea level. Photo: Shinta Mani Mustang.
A different world at 3,800 meters above sea level. Photo: Shinta Mani Mustang.
A different world at 3,800 meters above sea level. Photo: Shinta Mani Mustang.
A different world at 3,800 meters above sea level. Photo: Shinta Mani Mustang.
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