Belmond Mount Nelson
  • 7 MIN
  • Inspirational

My South Africa (with the family)

Text by Chiara Dragoni

An itinerary from Cape Town to the Garden Route and Port Elizabeth. Then stop at Grootbos to see the whales and finally go on a safari at the Madikwe Game Reserve.

After twenty years from my first visit, I returned to Cape Town, one of the most fascinating cities in Africa with its combination of culture, design, wine, and cuisine, as well as its marvelous landscapes. This time, for our family stay, I chose the Belmond Mount Nelson, one of the oldest hotels in the country, dating back to the mid-18th century. An oasis of tranquility in the vibrant city center. The interiors retain the colonial atmosphere of yesteryears, but everywhere you can feel the elegance and sophistication of contemporary hospitality. Within minutes of our arrival, they greeted us by name, as if they already knew us. We immediately felt at home. And even though we would never have left the magical atmosphere of Mount Nelson, we took advantage of its strategic location to visit the city and the Cape Peninsula, amidst high cliffs and wild beaches. We made our way to Boulders Beach, a beach protected by large boulders where a colony of African penguins lives, a species at risk of extinction.

Belmond Mount Nelson
Belmond Mount Nelson
Belmond Mount Nelson
Belmond Mount Nelson
Belmond Mount Nelson
Belmond Mount Nelson
Belmond Mount Nelson
Belmond Mount Nelson
Belmond Mount Nelson

After leaving Cape Town, our journey continues along the Garden Route, a 700-kilometer scenic road that runs parallel to the Atlantic coast, passing through Cape Agulhas (the southernmost point of Africa, where the Atlantic and Indian oceans meet) and continuing to Port Elizabeth, one of the main port cities in South Africa with a colonial atmosphere.

Penguins
Penguins

After a stop in Hermanus, one of the best spots for whale watching, we arrived at Grootbos, an eco resort with a vast private reserve surrounding it, acquired lot by lot from small landowners to convert it into fynbos, the indigenous vegetation of this latitude. It has a few essential yet elegant rooms with fireplaces and large windows that allow guests to be in touch with the beauty and nature, creating an enchanting symbiosis that stretches from the hills to Walker Bay, a small bay where whales train their young to swim. Grootbos is also a place that supports the local community with tangible projects ranging from computer lessons to sports camps. The concept of environmental and cultural conservation here is accompanied by a great sense of hospitality, with a very refined cuisine, fine South African wines, and daily activities. With Tiaan, our guide, we ventured on marine safaris among seal colonies and giant humpback whales, botanical excursions, visits to prehistoric caves, horseback riding, and an exciting sand dune bike ride with special bikes for racing on the sand.

Grootbos
Grootbos

The itinerary continues towards Plettenberg Bay and Knysna, the two jewels of the coast overlooking the Indian Ocean. The landscape changes, becoming almost tropical, and the winter air becomes milder thanks to the warm currents from the North.

As a base for our explorations, we have chosen Tsala Treetop Lodge, a lovely refuge with rooms among the trees of a wide valley. We are truly surrounded by wild nature. The view from our suite opens up to the valley and marvelous sunsets. The lodge is part of a vast country estate that includes two other colonial-style hotels and some restaurants, each different but all with excellent cuisine. The location of the lodge is strategic for discovering the area and for activities such as zip-lining, rafting, and exciting encounters with reptiles and primates.

Tsala treetop lodge
Tsala Treetop Lodge
Madikwe Game Reserve
Madikwe Game Reserve

Our South African adventure couldn't end without a photographic safari. With a short flight, we reached Johannesburg, where we spent the night at the Saxon Hotel & Villas in the quiet residential neighborhood of Sandhurst, home to ambassadors, politicians, and celebrities. Protected by mighty walls and immersed in a lush garden. The atmosphere is unique: luxurious grandeur and modernity blend with hints of South African tradition and history.

The next day, we set off for Madikwe Game Reserve, the fifth largest private reserve in South Africa: 75,000 hectares of pristine savannah bordering Botswana.
 

The lodges in the park are really few and it is rare to come across other jeeps during the safari.

We were not the only ones, but we felt like true explorers in search of elephants, lions, leopards, buffaloes, and rhinoceroses, the five mammals that everyone hopes to see. In Madikwe, we stayed at the Impodimo Game Lodge, an elegant estate on a rocky ridge near a natural spring with an unforgettable view. Our two-bedroom villa, perfect for us and the kids, overlooks the spring where animals come to quench their thirst in the dry season: the spectacle of nature unfolds before our eyes, and we could watch it for hours without getting tired. But outside awaits our private off-road vehicle. Ranger Ruben and tracker Sam call us back to order. We need to go if we want to see the Big Five.

Following the tracks, we came just a few steps away from a lion, which we watched without disturbing its moment of relaxation. A little further on, there is a lioness hunting and another lioness cuddling her two-month-old cubs.

It was a wonderful journey. Each stop was a surprise. We will never forget it.

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