Vietnam, slowly
Set out with us for an East unknown to travelers, where life is marked by atavistic rural rhythms and the landscape of rice paddies and lagoons inspires quiet and delicacy.
Reid's Palace: Madeira's Island of Eternal Spring
When you think of an island, Madeira probably isn't the first name that comes to mind. On this island of volcanic origin, lush green vegetation, steep cliffs, a dramatic mountainous profile, ancient laurel forests, and sprawling gardens overlooking the ocean come together in a landscape collage where nature is the true star, and the storied Reid's Palace waits above the cliffs of Funchal like the crown jewel of it all.
Although the Romans may have first set foot on Madeira, the island was officially colonized by the Portuguese in the 15th century, who considered it a key strategic outpost in the Atlantic. Sugarcane cultivation drove the island's economy until the 17th century, when wine took over as the main export, a reign that lasted until tourism began to take hold in the late 19th century.
Madeira belongs to an Atlantic archipelago that sits more than 800 kilometers from the Portuguese coast.
Madeira's volcanic origin gives the island a rocky landscape and dramatic cliffs. Photo: Valdemaras D.
Madeira is a surprising island that packs an astonishing range of landscapes into one place, from its lush forests to its rugged, rocky coastline.
The lush laurisilva forest, made up mainly of laurel, willow, beech, and fern trees, has been a protected UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1999.
Concentrated mainly in the island's north at altitudes between 300 and 1,400 meters, it now covers about 20% of Madeira.
Madeira's laurisilva forest has existed for 1.8 million years.
Madeira is best discovered on foot and by sea. Numerous irrigation canals called levadas carry water from the island's north to its south, forming a network of hiking trails suitable for every level, including a route to the best sunrise views from Pico do Arieiro, 1,818 meters above sea level.
From the water, a boat trip to the Desertas Islands is a must. These three rocky islets are home to little more than monk seals and seabirds, and their crystal-clear waters make for an unforgettable swim, with dolphins and whales often spotted on the way back.
More than 2,000 kilometers of levadas crisscross Madeira, carrying water from north to south. Photo: Joexx.
Madeira is a paradise for hikers, with trails for every level and breathtaking views of the coastline. Photo: Belmond.
A unique Madeira experience: descending from the Monte Sanctuary to Funchal aboard a wicker basket. Photo: Ilaria.
The "Carreiros do Monte" is a tradition that began as a way to carry goods from the Monte Sanctuary down to the city of Funchal in wooden and wicker baskets. Starting in 1850, with the rise of tourism on the island, these carreiros began carrying passengers, too.
Visitors reach the sanctuary by funicular, then descend by wicker basket along a two-kilometer route where speeds can reach 40 kilometers per hour on the winding roads.
A Hotel with History
If one hotel on the island can be called emblematic, it's Reid's Palace in Funchal. This luxury hotel was commissioned by William Reid, a Scotsman who left the cold cliffs of Scotland behind in the late 19th century and settled in Madeira, where he built a thriving business in the wine trade. As the great transatlantic ocean liners began carrying British travelers toward Africa, Reid saw an opportunity: a grand hotel where they could break up the journey with a few days' stay.
Reid didn't live to see his hotel completed, but his sons welcomed the first guests in 1891. Perched atop a rocky promontory with sweeping views over the Atlantic Ocean and the island, the hotel was accessible only by sea until 1964, when Madeira's airport was built. Travelers arriving to stay at Reid's Palace were carried in plush hammocks from the harbor up to the clifftop where the hotel stands.
Reid's Palace is located on a rocky promontory with spectacular views of the Atlantic Ocean.
This engraving shows how, in the early 20th century, the hotel became a summer resort for the British upper class.
The interior design reflects a perfect symbiosis of British classicism with the light of Madeira.
The history of this luxury hotel is present in many of its corners.
The veranda overlooking the ocean is the perfect place to savor some of the prized Madeiran wines from the hotel's cellar.
The hotel is perfect for couples and families with children, and even pets are welcome. Photos: Belmond
Over the years, the hotel has welcomed distinguished guests, including the writer George Bernard Shaw and Winston Churchill, who spent long stretches at Reid's painting and writing his memoirs.
Staying at Reid's Palace is like stepping back into the golden age of grand hotels, where every detail counts. With its classic British-style interiors awash in white, gray, and blue, Reid's Palace is the ideal starting point for experiencing the best of Madeira in style.
From a picnic in the hotel's sprawling botanical garden, home to tree species from Brazil, Australia, China, Korea, and Japan, to a proper English-style afternoon tea with sweeping views of the Atlantic, there's no shortage of ways to indulge.
And before dinner, why not take a classic car out to Ponta do Sol, one of the island's best spots to watch the sunset?
- A picnic in the hotel's botanical garden, home to a stunning variety of trees and shrubs from around the world. Photo: Belmond —
- The Santana house is Madeira's traditional dwelling, with an inverted V-shape and a thatched roof; the upper floor stored seeds and grain, while livestock was kept below. Photo: Daniela Turcanu —
- Afternoon tea at 5 p.m. remains a cherished tradition at Reid's Palace. Photo: Belmond —
- Touring the island's winding roads in a classic car in search of the sunset. Photo: Belmond
In the mid-16th century, William Shakespeare referenced the renown of Madeira Malvasia in his play "Richard III," writing that the Duke of Clarence chose to drown in a barrel of the wine.
Grapevines in Madeira grow in small plots of land known as "poios," supported by earthen retaining walls called "terraços" built into the mountainsides, many of them difficult to reach.
The island's unique soil and climate, combined with its production methods and grape varieties, come together to create a wine unlike any other in the world.
More than thirty varieties of Madeira wine exist, with Sercial, Boal, Verdelho, and Malvasia counted among the noblest.
Madeira wine was chosen to celebrate American independence on July 4, 1776.
Madeira is a destination worth visiting any time of year, thanks to its mild, oceanic climate. Every season brings its own charm: at Christmas and New Year's Eve, for instance, the city of Funchal glows with hundreds of colored lights, and its New Year's Eve fireworks rank among the largest pyrotechnic displays in the world.
The tradition dates back to the eighteenth century, when bonfires lit the city to celebrate the feast of San Silvestre; later, English residents introduced fireworks to ring in the new year.
Related stories
Paris is the new centre of gravity for contemporary art.
Whether you are a collector, connoisseur or enthusiast, the prime destination for getting into the pulse of the current world art scene is the Ville Lumière.
Wellness at the heart of Costa Rican lifestyle
Costa Rica has positioned itself as a leading wellness tourism destination thanks to its lush nature, relaxed pace of life, and focus on health and wellness.
Canouan, micro-paradise
In the Grenadines, there is an island with white beaches, turquoise waters, and lush vegetation. The perfect place for those seeking a peaceful and private break.
L'Albereta, an Eden among the vineyards
As guests of the Moretti family in Franciacorta, you can visit the Bellavista wineries, relax on a "green beach", dine at a casual restaurant, and rejuvenate at the famous spa Chenot Espace.
The majestic Iguazu Falls
Countless times I had seen Iguazu Falls in photographs, but after seeing them in person I realized how impossible it is to do justice to their majesty or to prepare for the awe one feels by having them in front of one's eyes.
Holidays in a five-star villa in Puglia
In the Exclusive Homes collection of Mandarin Oriental, there are now also two farmhouses available for rent in Valle d'Itria, with the services of a grand hotel.
Hotel Isfjord Radio
The Isfjord Radio Hotel is located on the island of Spitsbergen in the Norwegian Arctic. It offers a luxurious experience amidst pristine nature. With stunning views of the Arctic Ocean and top-notch amenities, it is the ideal retreat for adventurers seeking a peaceful and exclusive journey. Its incomparable surroundings allow for an excellent enjoyment of wildlife and Arctic landscapes.
12 MONTHS / 12 STORIES
12
One story, each month, for a year
Choose your topics/ areas of interests
5'
Five minutes of inspiration
The day of your choice